Q: Bedliner Application Mixing and Masking

A: BEDLINER APPLICATION TIPS. 1. MASKING: For masking - use car sheathing (such as available from Fiberglass Evercote or Norton). You can cover the whole truck for about $1.50. You will only have to use 1 piece as it will cover the sides, the cab, and when you trim the excess off of the sides it makes your rear bumper cover as well. This process will save a lot of time when “prepping”, and it makes the clean up very professional. 2. MIXING: When mixing Gator Guard with a mixer it can be very messy, when mixing two BGG2 kits use an empty gallon paint can. Add both components to the can, punch a hole through the lid of the can for the mixing paddle, insert paddle and fasten to can. This will allow a much cleaner and quicker mixing process

Q: Hippo and Colour Your Hippo Solvent Popping etc

A: 1) Why do l get solvent pop when I roll Color Your Hippo? A) Usually what you are seeing is not actually solvent pop. What you are seeing is air bubbles that have popped. This is caused by working the material to much with the roller. In other words rolling air into the material. The air bubbles get trapped into the material and as the product starts to cure they float to the surface and the top pops open looking like small and large solvent pops. Suggestion- Do not keep rolling the material. Apply the bed liner with the roller by only rolling over the surface once or twice before the material tacks. If the texture is not what you desire or you do not have complete coverage, you should allow the product to set and apply a second coat. When rolling, two coats is better than one to achieve even coverage and texture. If you apply a second coat please review instructions prior to applying a second coat. 2) My roller deteriorates before I can finish my first kit. Why ? A) What is causing this is the material that has been mixed up has started to set or thicken. As the material sets it generates heat. By continuing to roll as the material is setting and getting hot causes the roller to be pulled apart and deteriorate. You should mix up only enough material that can be rolled within the products work life or pot life. Times are as follows: 1 quart of mixed material has a work time of 30 minutes @ 75 degrees F. with less than 50% humidity. An increase in temperature or humility will dramatically shorten working times. Example 1 mixed quart at 100 degrees F. will have a work time of less than 15 minutes. If you mix up both quarts of material your work time listed above will be shortened by approx. 50%. Example - 2 mixed quarts at 75 degrees will give you a work time of approx. 15 to 20 minutes. 3) Can I tint Color Your Hippo with a universal tint from a hardware store? A) These tints may be compatible but have never been tested. We only recommend single stage automotive paint tints because of the quality of UV resistance and the known properties and performance provided by the automotive grade of tints. If any other tints are used other than what is recommended, we are not responsible for the performance or the results. 4) Con I tint Color Your Hippo today and use it tomorrow? A) Yes. You can add up to 3 ounces of single stage automotive tint to the part B can only. Do not add the part A to the tinted part B until you are ready to use the product. If you add the part A to the part B and do not use the material within it's pot life it will set up in the can. WARNING: Since part A is the catalyst, if you add the tint to this part the tint will gel or set in the can and not be able to be used and mixed with part B.

Q: Hippo Liner - Various questions

A: Dear Sir I need some tech info on HIPPO, more than on your tech sheet. I need film build per coat and maximum Answer: ---- 10 -15 mils. If a second coat is needed allow all the solvents to flash but do NOT allow the coating to set and apply a second coat. If additional coats are need allow to dry. Sand and apply the additional coat. Do not apply more that 2 coats without allowing the bedliner to dry overnight. Question:Which solvents it resists and which ones it doesn't Answer: most solvents for short periods. Long term exposure to solvents can cause the material to swell and start to breakdown. Solvent resistance: MEK - Passes 100 Rubs MINERAL SPIRITS - Passes 100 Rubs XYLOL - Passes 100 Rubs LACQUER THINNER - Passes 100 Rubs ACETONE - Passes 100 Rubs GASOLINE - Passes solvent spot test OIL - Passes solvent spot test METHYLENE CHLORIDE - Passes solvent spot test Question temperature resistance Answer: Max. 180 - 190 degrees. Product will soften if exposed to excessive heat for a long period of time. These temps. are for short intervals of under 1 hour. Normal maximum temperature range is up to 140-150 degrees F. Question: UV resistance Answer: Good. After 168 hours of accelerated weathering in accordance with SAE J1960 HIPPO showed very little to no change in gloss. After 239.5 hours panels still maintained a high gloss. NB Original gloss can change depending on application conditions. High humidity or water in the air lines can produce a loss in gloss during application. UV RESISTANCE - PASS Question:impact ratings Outstanding, Gravel Ometer:(SAE J400), SMC - Passes Sheet Metal - Passes

Q: How do I repair horses hoof

A: Dominion Sure Seal the leader in manufacturing of specialty adhesives and protective coatings is proud to bring to you Equine Hoof Repair. Equine Hoof Repair is the next generation in hoof repair products. Equine Hoof Repair is a unique formulation which will allow you to not only to use as a repair material for hoofs but also will allow you to glue on ¡°glue on¡± shoes. We have developed this product with the Farrier and horse owner in mind. Equine Hoof Repair provide you a tough, durable, hard, resilient repair that remain permanently flexible that can be used for hoof wall repairs, repair of under run heels, and for toe repairs. This product is a must for all Farriers and horse owners to assist with proper hoof care. The repairs using Equine Hoof Repair are fast and easy to do. You first need to evaluate the repair to be sure there is no blood or serious damage to horse and the horse¡¯s hoof. Provided the hoof is not bleeding, bare skin is showing or the hoof is not in need of medical attention we can proceed. What we are showing is a hoof wall repair. You first need to sand and clean the damaged area of the hoof. If there are any oils or manure on the hoof you must clean this off before proceeding. Now that we know the hoof is clean and thoroughly dry we will proceed. We will grind or cut away the damaged area of the hoof. You can use either sand paper, a rasp, or in our case we have chosen to use a rotary tool with a cutting/grinding bit. After we have removed the loose damaged area we taper the sides back allowing a smooth transition into the vertical sides. This will allow us a smooth transition from the repair to the surrounding hoof. We will explain this a little later. With the grinding and sanding completed, use a brush or towel to remove any loose hoof left behind. We¡¯re now ready to apply Equine Hoof Repair. To get the cartridge ready we will first remove the cartridge from the package. Save the package for use as a contouring plastic to assist with reforming parts of the hoof. Open the cartridge by twisting the top off the cartridge. Once you have opened the cartridge, insert the cartridge into our dispenser keeping the tip pointed upward so the material will not flow from the cartridge. With a paper towel purge a small amount of material into the paper towel to equalize the plungers in the cartridge. Attach the mixing tip as shown. Once you have tightened the tip you are ready to get started. Squeeze the trigger on the dispenser and dispense a small amount of mixed material into the towel. This ensures you have a good mix prior to applying to the hoof. In our case we have opened the bag the cartridge came in and will use it to help us mold the hoof in our repair process. This will make for less work later. As you can see we have the hoof on half of the bag. We will now apply the material into the damaged prepared area of the hoof. With the product still wet fold the bag up as shown and wrap it around the hoof applying slight pressure. This will push the material into the damaged area and help to form a smooth transition from the repair area to the good hoof so we do not have as much sanding or rasping later. Allow the product to sit for approx 3-5 minutes at 70 degrees before removing the bag. You can tell when the product is ready because it will stay on the hoof and remove cleanly from the bag. Once you remove the bag allow the repair material to sit for an additional 3-5 minutes before you start to rasp the repair to reshape the hoof. If you need to speed this process apply heat from a heat gun to warm the hoof and repair material. Be careful not to burn or get the hoof to hot causing damage to the horse. Now the repair is back into shape. We now can sand the repair area to give a nicer cosmetic look. As you can see the repair area has a nice smooth transition back into the hoof. Now that we have finished with the repair we can apply any type of dressing back to the hoof as normal. Within 15 minutes your horse can be back on its feet. Equine Hoof repair can be used for Toe Extensions, Hoof Wall Cracks, Under Run Heels and more. Equine Hoof Repair is very Farrier friendly. The product during use will rasp and cut like hoof. After repairing the hoof you can shoe the horse or trim the repair material just like hoof. Equine Hoof Repair works well for repairs and bonding ¡®glue on¡¯ shoes too. This is a must for every Farrier! For additional information please see our data sheet or call Dominion Sure Seal for detail. When working around your stable or horse trailer be sure to look for additional Dominion Sure Seal products such as our exciting multi purpose spray in bed liners, protective coatings, and our service chemicals used world wide. Please contact Dominion Sure Seal or your local distributor for details.